Totoro Road in reminiscence and Governor Amosun’s metamorphosis in Abeokuta

By Oba Femi Ogunleye

Each time, either day or night, that I pass through the Totoro Road, from the Lafenwa-Ago Oba intersection to Sokori and viewing Iyalode square on the hill, in the Owu area of Abeokuta, I cannot but appreciate nature; neither can I fail to appreciate the gift of a man whose initiative, creativity, courage and action have changed the facade and aesthetics of the ancient road and the complete architecture of Abeokuta metropolis.

My appreciation stems from my memory of the narrow tarred road on which in early 50s I had trecked times without number, in company of my mother, either from our Delesolu, Awaye or Loshi's compounds, all tucked in locations not feasible from the road, to the Owu palace, particularly during the annual orisha festivals (traditional religion) when adherents must pay homage to the Olowu in his palace.

One of the early lessons I learnt as a child from the revered Olowu Gbadela Ajibola, was that though a devout Muslim, he never shunned his people who kept faith in other religions, particularly the traditional ones who often thronged the palace, either to announce the beginning or the close of their festivals.

He might not believe in their faith but as the custodian of culture and tradition of his people, he was open and available all the times for the pleasure of his subjects. He would show them love, understanding and offered them gifts. As a 'son of the house'  (my parents' house is in Awaye compound which juxtaposes Alebiosu Compound, from where Kabiyesi Ajibola hails), I was like a special delight to Kabiyesi anytime I accompanied my mother to the palace as he often got me seated on his laps - a Royal child one would say!

The old Totoro Road was narrow and undulating. Houses of different sizes, styles and structures littered the road at both sides with little or no space in between them to behold the beauty of nature.  Besides residential houses, there were deity conclaves and monuments of traditional religions where rituals of all types were being performed. Adherents constantly showcased their faith in sacrifices of different dimensions and during these festivals, the old road was always agog with traditional drummers and performers, hence the attention to them as they passed to their shrine rendezvous which at that time was the Sokori river.

The various sacrifices, the contents of which sometime contained eggs, coins, parboiled corn, and other edibles, were usually carried in big calabashes by the seemingly possessed.  Suffice it to understand why some boys in the environment would take pleasure in following them as if they were initiates. Their interest, as often discovered, was either the eggs or coins or other edible materials in the sacrifice, which they often carted away for their own use. Any further need to prove acceptance of the sacrifice?

Besides these foot journeys, I also remember the two pence per ten minutes bicycle hire from an old cousin, Brother Rasheed, from the frontage of Oloshi's compound, opposite Jokosenumi's House. The bicycle letting and ride on the Totoro road, either to the intersection near Pa Odebunmi's house and return or across the Sokori bridge, meandering through the coconut grove on the footpath to Oke Sokori, was very interesting and fascinating to the young lads of my time.

The exercise was, however, prone to frequent quarrels with the bicycle owner, particularly if one was late for more than five minutes and an additional money was demanded; failure to pay might result in seizure of one's property like one's shirt, or pair of slippers in lieu of payment, the situation that often might lead to more problem of reproach at home, more so if the ab initio money for the bicycle hire was not sourced from an unauthorized purse (an often occurrence).

At night, the road was limitedly illuminated with the lamp polls staggered. One of such poll was positioned near Chief Olusegun Obasanjo's family house (Olusomi compound) which served as night-game spot for the enterprising youth of the time. The Erunmu market where various food stuff were sold day and night was a delight scene on the road. Hardly would a taxi-cab of a six-pence per a passenger per drop missed our area each day, not with the presence of some of our aunties whose call signs were the designed sporadic horn blown by the taxi drivers on arrival.

The bend on the road at Sokori area between Pa Adisa's house and an upstairs near the bridge was often susceptible to accidents by both motorists and cyclists that caution was always taken at the area, particularly when one remembered that the bridge was a depository of pails of feces collected by conservancy staff from the houses of their clients.

Col. Saidu Balogun, the first military governor of Ogun State at creation in 1976 made some strides to rebrand Abeokuta as a state capital. Totoro road was one of the pioneer projects. It was the first time several houses including shrines and deity monuments that had littered the road were demolished to give the road an appropriate face-lift.  Several governments had since managed Abeokuta after it became the state capital without any significant change on its roads and other requisites of its status.

But in God's time, a son of the soil has come to create a phenomenal change! Within 18 calendar month of Senator Ibikunle Amosun's assumption as governor of ogun state, the template of governance has come to confirm the Yoruba proverb, 'bi omode ko ba de oko baba elomiran ri, a ma sope oko baba oun l'o poju (a child who has not seen another farm besides his father’s prides it the largest). The transformation of Abeokuta at large and my Totoro locale is amazing and a lasting legazy for generation yet unborn.

It is remarkable that in our life time, we can see and feel what we have seen and felt in other countries of the world, Totoro road is now a six-lane dual carriage road bedecked with massive street lights and with pedestrian kerb and decorated median to beautify the ambience of the street. Besides the beautification of the Iyalode square, a giant recreational garden named after Olowu Olawale Odeleye is an added touristic attraction in honour of the late distinguished architect monarch.

The extension of Totoro road towards Ibara and Oke-Ilewo with the first overhead pedestrian bridge as well as a four-lane bridge ahead of the trunk road have elevated the spirits of the cynics that the urban renewal program for Abeokuta and the entire urban cities of the state by Governor Amosun, among other developmental programs on his mission to rebuild Ogun State, cannot be likened to the razzmatazz of the past administrations.

Oba Olufemi Ogunleye, Towulade of Akinale,Ogun State